Guy Fieri, the neon spiky-haired host of the Food Network’s Diners, Drive-ins and Dives show, opened up a huge new restaurant in Times Square and from every review I’ve seen, the place is a monstrosity.
Guy Fieri’s American Kitchen & Bar has a menu laden with abbreviations and just plain head-scratchers. A burger with LTOP and SMC? That would be lettuce, tomato, onion and pickle, with super melty cheese. And the prevalent Donkey Sauce, which just sounds oh so unappetizing.
New York Times restaurant critic Pete Wells went to the cathedral of crap four times in order to ensure his bad review was warranted. He found a big lack of respect for the so-called “no collar food” that was enthusiastically explained on the menu, but lacked execution and basic flavor on the plate.
I can see why Fieri’s show is popular. I even enjoy watching it every once in a while. Fieri does a great job showcasing down-home joints all over the country with flair and gusto. Pretty much every place he’s set foot in has become wildly popular, with big lines and a huge uptick in business.
But it just seems so dishonest to try and take that classic American fare, transplant it to Times Square, charge upwards of $25 for an entree and do it poorly. Wells’ review has been painted as too harsh or unnecessary, but I think it was just right.
What do you think?